This Weekends Brew: Porter

Porter

Batch size5 gallons
Boil size6.1 gallons
Boil time60 minutes
Grain weight12.75 pounds
Efficiency75%
Original gravity1.068
Final gravity1.017
Alcohol (by volume)6.7%
Bitterness (IBU)30
Color (SRM) 28.3°L

Yeast:Wyeast
    1028London Ale

Grains/Extracts/Sugars:12.75 pounds
2 Row Base
    37ppg, 1.5°L8 pounds
    62.7%
Munich (Light)
    34ppg, 10°L2 pounds
    15.7%
Oats (Flaked)
    32ppg, 2°L1 pound
    7.8%
Chocolate
    29ppg, 400°L0.75 pounds
    5.9%
Crystal 20L
    35ppg, 20°L0.5 pounds
    3.9%
Crystal 40L
    34ppg, 40°L0.5 pounds
    3.9%

Hops:3 ounces
Fuggles hops
    5%, Whole1.5 ounces
Goldings (Kent) hops
    5%, Pellet1 ounce
Ahtanum hops
    6%, Whole0.5 ounces

Mash:60 minutes, 152°F
    60 minutes (+0)
Boil:60 minutes, 6.1 gallons

Fuggles hops
    5%, Whole1.5 ounces
60 minutes (+0)

Goldings (Kent) hops
    5%, Pellet1 ounce
20 minutes (+40)

Fuggles  hops
    5%, Whole0.5 ounces
5 minutes (+58)
Ferment
14 days @ 60-72°F

IPA: Sunday's Brew

Recipe Calculation

07. India Pale Ale, India Pale Ale

All-grain

Color

Stats OG 1.061 FG 1.015 IBU 51 ABV 5.9 % SRM 8

Specifics Boil Volume 6 gallons Batch Size 5 gallons Yeast 75% AA

Style Comparison   Low   High OG 1.050 1.061 1.075 FG 1.012 1.015 1.016 IBU 40 51 60+ SRM 8 8 14 ABV 5 5.9 7.8

Fermentables

% Weight	Weight (lbs)	Grain	Gravity Points	Color
90.9 %	10.00	American Two-row Pale	55.5	3.6
9.1 %	1.00	American Crystal 40L	5.1	8.0
	11.00		60.6

Hops

% Wt	Weight (oz)	Hop	Form	AA%	AAU	Boil Time	Utilization	IBU
50.0 %	1.00	Cascade	Whole/Plug	8.6	8.6	60	0.229	29.5
50.0 %	1.00	Centennial	Whole/Plug	10.5	10.5	20	0.139	21.8
	2.00							51.3

Calculated by TastyBrew.com

Automation

So I am kicking around ideas for the automation of the new brew system. There are several ways I can go with this, and I will be kicking around the pros and cons of each system.

The first system is the Brutus system. This is the simplest system but does not allow for some cool upgrades later on down the line. This system uses PID temperature controllers to monitor temperatures and to tell the gas valves when to open.

Here is a link to the original Brutus build http://alenuts.com/Alenuts/brutus.html

The second is a little more complicated but will do a whole lot more. The cool part about it is you can add on to the system later.

The brewtroller system is a computer board with a LCD output. The system will monitor temps and tell valves to open to raise temps. The cool part about it is it will also turn on and off pumps, and fill tanks using pressure sensors and valves. It also has a USB interface to output data to a pc.

The problem with this system is it comes as a couple computer boards that need to be put together. While this lets you configure it the way you want it, it will be more difficult to put together.

The third option is bcs-460. This is a USB device that will control temperature and a pump or 2.

This uses a web based app to control the system. Which will require a computer or laptop to be next to the system at all times (it does have an iPhone app though.)

The good part about this system is it is already put together and ready to go.

Brew stand

Here is a quick drawing of what our stand will look like. I decided to go with a 2 tier system, to eliminate the need for 2 pumps if I want to do a fly sparge. I kind of modeled the stand idea from this post.

I think I will use casters so I can easily move the stand when need. I will remove the height of the casters from the height of the stand, because I am already pushing the upper limits of the height that I want to go. The bottom height has to be that tall to fit the fermentation vessel. The top tier has to be able to transfer into the boil kettle so that height can't change.

Do you think the height will be an issue? My worry at this point is the base won't be wide enough, and the stand will be unstable. Will the use of casters add to this problem? The use of angle iron will allow me to make quick modifications if one idea doesn't work.

First Keg Cut

I made my first attempt at cutting the top off of a keg today.  I went to home depot with intentions of making a jig like the thread here. While browsing the piping aisle at home depot i saw a T coupler that i thought would work perfectly.  So after sizing it up i found that it would not work without a little modification (you can see the modification from the picture below.

I had to cut the T coupler in half and then one end off of it so it would make the size cut i needed.  Also when i went to put the metal band around the coupler and the handle it was too loose. The sides of the coupler needed to be drilled out to tighten up enough on the angle grinder handle. Below a picture of the grinder and coupler on a keg. 

Below is a picture of the final product before the edges are cleaned up.  The liquid in it is old beer and water that we put in it to dampen the sound while cutting.  You need to watch the end cause the lid drops straight into the water after it is cut.  I imagine that the next one should go much smoother.  I will try to get some action shots as i cut the next one.

Logo Gary Drew

Here's the picture gary drew that I traced and colored.  What do you think?

Kegs are purchased ready to make into keggles.